Perspectives: Gun Nowak, Face Stockholm
Gun Nowak (left) with her daughter, Martina.
Face Stockholm’s founder remembers the struggles of starting her own business.
By Marie Redding, Senior EditorFace Stockholm’s sleek, minimalist packaging has been attracting attention in the States from the moment the brand opened its first U.S. store in New York City in 1990. (Ten years earlier, in 1980, Gun Nowak, the company’s founder, opened Face Stockholm’s first retail store in Sweden.) Nowak now works with her daughter, Martina Arfwidson, as the brand has expanded into 40 retail locations worldwide.
What propelled you to start your own makeup brand?
When I started Face Stockholm, I had already opened two shops of my own, selling designer clothing. At that time, the selection of colors in cosmetics was limited. When I saw Biba, the fashion boutique in London, for the first time, I was fascinated by the colors of the clothing. They were different from anything I had ever seen before, and I wanted lipsticks and nail polishes to match. When I met a supplier who was from New York, I realized what was possible and that there was an opportunity. I was inspired, and so was Martina—even as a teenager.
What was most difficult about being a start-up-business owner?
I didn’t have a business education, and the Internet wasn’t available—or any other source—to help find suppliers. I had to start from scratch—researching, traveling, building, designing, and selling.
Can you describe specific challenges you faced when establishing the Face Stockholm brand?
I wasn’t knowledgeable about the makeup industry. I had a lot to learn quickly. Martina was attending music school in New York City at that time. She is the reason we were able to establish the brand in the United States. The system in the United States is so different than in Europe, so we really had to listen and learn. I could not have done it without Martina, and I wish that I would have known about ICMAD (Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors Association) then.
You’re one of ICMAD’s board members. Why do you feel that it’s important to be involved with ICMAD?
I am so proud to be on ICMAD’s board. They are a great support to me, and I get a lot of inspiration and knowledge from them. The various programs they offer provide crucial information for our business. It is so rewarding to be part of such a dynamic organization providing information and services to the industry. The networking within the organization is global.
How often do you travel to trade shows? How helpful are they to you?
Every year. Cosmoprof in Bologna, Italy, and HBA Global Expo in New York City are my favorites. Trade shows are the best way to get an overview of the makeup and skin care markets, especially for packaging. It is a great inspiration to see novelties, find new distributors, and meet colleagues from around the world.
Does walking a trade show still help you find new suppliers, even now that your brand is so well established?
Absolutely! This year, at Cosmoprof, I was looking for a specific skin care bottle, and I found it.
What was it like when your first large retailer, Barney’s New York, wanted to sell Face Stockholm products?
It was so exciting, and we were so impressed with Barney’s. Having no prior experience with department stores, we were quite nervous.
Isn’t there a funny story about a “packaging nightmare” that happened during your opening day at Barney’s?
Yes, but it’s a long story. The short version is that our packaging supplier couldn’t supply our lipsticks in time, so we had to open at Barney’s without them. Imagine introducing a cosmetics line without lipsticks!
What was it like when you had your first custom mold made?
Having enough money to make our first mold was a great moment and a big event!