Color Cosmetic Packaging: Makeup Packages Offer More
Stila Cosmetics’ limited-edition PussyCat Dolls palette has customers begging for more. By Marie Redding, Senior Editor
With so many makeup brands competing for buyer attention, today’s customers expect to get the most for their money. As a result, cosmetics brands are choosing packages that convey that their product is extraordinary. “Makeup has become pretty pricey these days,” says Alexis Mezzina, communications director for Tarte Cosmetics (New York City). “A special package for a compact or a palette will help the consumer feel like she’s getting her money’s worth. A chic package that can double as an accessory is much more alluring than a plain black pot.”
Kits that contain a variety of products and limited-edition packages, such as those for Stila’s PussyCat Dolls line, are perfect examples of packages that deliver that extra-special quality that consumers find appealing.
Besides being attractive, a cosmetic package is also expected to deliver other benefits such as portability and ease of use. “The hot trend in cosmetic packaging is convenience,” says Helga Arminak, president of Arminak & Associates (Duarte, CA). “We’re seeing an increased demand for products that can be applied with one hand and one-piece packages that don’t require lifting off a cap.” Many of Arminak’s packaging options, for instance, promote ease of use such as pens for lip gloss or concealer.
New developments are also happening to add value to lip product packaging. In particular, improvements are being made to lip gloss packages, as demand for lip gloss continues to grow. Read on to find out about some of the latest packaging trends reported by both manufacturers and suppliers.
Compacts, Palettes, and Kits
Dressed in faux crocodile leatherette, Tarte Cosmetics’ Poptarte compact is the ultimate chic accessory.Some of the continuing design trends for compacts, kits, and palettes include ultraslim, portable packages and styles that can be customized by the consumer. In terms of decoration, fabric and paperboard are two popular choices.
If cosmetic packages can be judged in light of the fashion industry, then Tarte’s compacts are haute couture. The brand’s chic Mineral Powder Bronzer launched in April. The compact is covered in bronze faux crocodile leatherette and has two gold chains attached to the top. Also new is the brand’s trifold eyeshadow palette called Poptarte. It looks miniature, yet it holds eight different product colors. “There has definitely been a trend toward minis lately, whether it’s mini-kits or just a single package that has been downsized,” says Mezzina. “Our Poptarte packaging provides dual benefits. It is travel friendly, and it also contains lots of colors.”
“Portable packaging that’s functional is a big trend—especially things that are small enough to carry with you but that still hold a decent amount of product,” says Rebecca Goswell, creative director for HCT Packaging (Bridgewater, NJ). Goswell also predicts other trends based on what her customers are interested in right now. “Cardboard, for its cost-effective ability to be customized, will continue to be popular.”
CoverGirl is launching a new customizable compact in July. It features round pots with magnetic bottoms that pop into the compact’s aluminum wells. Its design shows how the trend toward customization is now influencing the mass market.
In line with the trend toward portable palettes, London-based brand POP Beauty’s Touch-Up Card contains Eye Cream, Eye Sparkle, two shades of Plumping Gloss, and All-Over Glow. The compact is as slim as a credit card, and a recyclable paperboard sleeve is used as its outer packaging. “It fits in a pocket and suits the fast-paced life-style of our customer,” says Sara Strand, the brand’s founder.
Arden's Latest Luxury Look
For its latest eye shadow and bronzer color cosmetics, Elizabeth Arden sought a sleek and elegant compact design with a weight that would convey the new line’s luxuriousness. To execute their vision, package designers from Arden sat down with Qualipac America’s team. “Arden wanted its compacts to feel substantial, with a massive feel and weight,” says Eric Vanin, vice president, sales and marketing, for Qualipac America. “At the same time, we had to keep the compact design as sleek as possible.”
Qualipac created the sleek and elegant compacts for Elizabeth Arden’s latest cosmetic products .Vanin and his packaging team turned to a manufacturing technology they had first used for CK Be’s fragrance cap—overmolding. According to Vanin, the process involves layering different materials on top of each other during the molding process. Compact decoration, such as the hot stamping of the Elizabeth Arden name, is performed during molding, in between two layers of plastic. Through careful control of the process, Qualipac is able to produce compacts with no air trapped in the middle of the layers, which Vanin says can be one of the process’s challenges.
For Arden’s new color line, Qualipac used a transparent smoky black plastic for the compact’s surface and a shiny black plastic underneath. Arden’s brand name floats in between. Vanin reports that the plastic is scratch resistant, eliminating the need for a traditional UV coating. Qualipac produced three compact sizes: one for the bronzer, one for the eye shadow, and another for the eye shadow that features a window.
Vanin adds that the compact’s closing system also played a role in expressing the upscale nature of the line. “When you close a compact, you want a certain sound,” says Vanin. “There is a sense of perfection achieved throughout these compacts, including the hinge.” Instead of using typical silver pins, Qualipac used black metal that matches the plastic. Qualipac had previous experience with totally transparent packages and hinges. Vanin says the elimination of the pins is the “ultimate camouflage.” He calls it “a total synergy with the package.”
In manufacturing the compacts, Vanin says that Qualipac really didn’t alter Arden’s original design. “We would rather create an intricate, complex, even crazy process to make the design work. We genuinely wanted to present the vision of Arden’s designers.”
Vanin adds that very few people have the time, money, and energy to really commit themselves to a design, such as Arden’s designers did. “Designers often end up changing their design, negotiating and giving up a little along the way. They shouldn’t—it is like giving up your soul.” —Daphne Allen
The PussyCat Dolls collection by Stila Cosmetics (Los Angeles) was launched in February. The limited-edition line was a success—it completely sold out of Sephora stores. The collection contained a Look Book, which is a palette with three eye shadows and one cheek color. Its cover design was done by Stila’s in-house illustrator, Caitlin Dinkins. “Using recyclable paperboard packaging has always fit in with the image of the Stila brand,” says Kim Waite, global communications manager for Stila Cosmetics.
Incorporating high-tech features into a compact’s design is also continuing. “[Arminak & Associates is] developing an airless compact with a separate compartment that allows the sponge applicator to breathe,” says Arminak. “This design prevents both moisture and air from contaminating the product.” Arminak & Associates’ new compact will have an air valve outlet in the lid, which enables the sponge to breathe when the compact is closed.
Alcan Packaging Techpack (New York City) has been developing slim kits that are extremely functional. “We wanted to address the problems women have when applying makeup, and these kits are designed to be convenient, practical, and also make application easier,” explains Michel Limongi, Alcan Packaging Techpack’s creative director and a former makeup artist. The supplier’s Slim Eyebrow Kit contains tweezers, seting gel in a mascara container, colored wax, brown blusher, and a beveled hard bristle applicator with an ergonomic handle. The mascara bottle also acts as the hinge of the compact, so that when a customer pulls the cap and brush out, the bottle stays attached to the compact. The applicator also attaches to the compact by snapping in. The company’s Lip Kit is the same design, with a lipstick used as the hinge, a lip liner, two shades of gloss, and an applicator. Both kits contain long, narrow inside mirrors that are perfectly sized to allow customers to see both their eyes and lips. We expect to see these useful compacts used for new launches soon.
The Popularity of Lip Gloss
Many more brands have taken to launching new lip glosses rather than lipsticks, in a variety of different types of packages. Will the popularity of lip gloss continue to surpass lipstick in the future? We asked a few industry insiders to tell us their opinions, and to discuss the most popular packages available for gloss.
Demand is high for lip glosses like these by Clinique—as well as for lip gloss packaging. “I definitely think that lip gloss is more popular than lipstick, and it has been for quite a while now,” says Tarte’s Mezzina. Since the convenience factor plays such a huge role in packaging right now, the type of package chosen most often for lip gloss has been bottles or tubes, both with applicator wands. The standard pot, which requires customers to use their fingers or a separate brush to apply product, is not favored as much anymore when it comes to gloss.
David Deans, president of Roberts Cosmetic Containers (Chatsworth, CA), explains, “One of the reasons why lip gloss has become so popular is due to the number of different types of packages available for gloss. There is a huge variety of dispensing options, including brush tips, doe foots, roller balls, shower heads, and blade tips.”
Tubes are still a widely chosen packaging option for lip gloss. “A tube is still such a convenient packaging option for gloss, and you can dress it up quite nicely and fairly inexpensively,” says Bob Reinhardt, executive vice president of sales at World Wide Packaging (Florham Park, NJ). For instance, hot stamping helps to give a tube a luxe look. “Our ability to hot stamp the entire tube creates a very upscale package at a very reasonable price,” Reinhardt says.
Stila will be launching IT Gloss in June. It will be packaged in a long, clear tube with a brush-tip wand applicator. “Our new tube and applicator make application easy,” says Waite.
Roberts Cosmetic Containers is launching a new lip gloss tube, which the company is in the process of showing to the market right now. The tube incorporates a new, patented technology, according to Deans. The tube contains a valve that prevents the flow of the product from the tube to the applicator tip when the cap is on. Deans explains the way it works. “The valve is connected to a circular collar. When the cap is on, pressure is applied to the collar, which causes it to move about 1⁄16 of an inch. This closes and seals the valve.”
Another new development in lip gloss tubes is the use of DuPont Surlyn. AmorePacific launched its Laneige Shining Lip Gloss in Asia. It is packaged in a flexible, extruded tube, made with DuPont’s Surlyn. Until now, Surlyn has been most widely used in the beauty packaging industry for molding caps for fragrance bottles. “The use of Surlyn for flexible tubes is not yet commercial in the United States,” says Yasmin Siddiqi, global business manager for DuPont Cosmetic Solutions (Wilmington, DE). “We expect other brands will soon adapt this innovative technology once they see the benefits, in particular, the superior performance of Surlyn in terms of transparency and squeezability.”
New Types of Applicators for Lip Gloss
The popularity of lip gloss is one of the driving forces in the development of new types of applicators. “The liquid lip gloss market has exploded in the past five years,” says Adrian Hook, vice president of sales for Geka Toly (Edison, NJ). “In our opinion, molded applicators will have a major role to play in the near future.”
Geka Toly Corp. has partnered with the Japan-based company Sinwa in order to bring new applicator and brush technologies to market. “There has been a continued demand from our customers to create something new in the lip gloss category, as an alternative to the standard flock-tip applicator,” says Hook. “New, specialized polymers have also become available, which have inspired us to develop these new applicators.” Geka Toly’s new TPU applicators are biinjection molded and consist of two polymer components. The applicators have an outer TPU coating that makes them soft. The Shiseido PN line, which is sold only in Japan by Sinwa, has launched a new lip gloss with this type of applicator.
Alcan Packaging Techpack is also favoring new types of applicators with flat, spatula-shaped tips and a rubbery feel. The applicatorsalso have flexible handles to help the user pick up just the right amount of product, and to prevent them from using too much pressure when applying product. One type of flat applicator tip is smooth on one side and has ridges on the other. “The side with the ridges can be used to exfoliate the lips slightly, before applying gloss,” says Limongi.
Vincent Longo's sponge-tip lip gloss applicator contains an expensive material in its tip. Even with the introduction of these new applicators, it might be some time before companies are persuaded to move away from the alluring properties of the standard doe foots and flock tips. Linda Treska, product development manager at Vincent Longo Cosmetics, chose a standard doe-foot-shaped sponge applicator for the brand’s lip gloss, over a pointy brush tip. “Our sponge tip is very soft and wide, which works perfectly with our formula,” she says. “We are very happy with it.” An expensive material was incorporated into the applicator’s tip. Extensive testing was performed in order to ensure this tip achieved precise application and picked up enough gloss to cover both the top and bottom lips, according to Treska. Vincent Longo’s lip gloss line includes 20 different shades. In 2003, the packaging was changed from an automatic click pen to a clear bottle that shows the product colors.
3C Inc. (Hawthorne, NJ) will be introducing a new flexible doe-foot applicator. “It will give more control over the traditional applicator,” says Louis Della Pesca, president of 3C.
Crown Risdon (Watertown, CT), is a supplier also working on the development of new applicators. Steve Pearlman, president at Crown Risdon, says, “We are considering several new ideas for new shapes which use a rubberlike base material, and several new shapes are also already in development. Our new applicators will combine a rubberlike base material with traditional flocking.” However, Pearlman still favors the flock tip over new, paddle-shaped silicone tips. “The flock tip has many advantages over a rubbermaterial, but, an applicator that combines both by using a rubber base material will bring innovation to the market.” Crown Risdon will soon be launching a new range of standard flock-tip applicators in different shapes and densities, which will improve their performance even more.
Lipstick’s Staying Power
In light of the growing popularity of lip gloss, lipstick packaging may play a crucial role in getting customers to purchase lipstick.
“Women are still using lipstick, but they are just applying gloss over it for shine,” says Carisa Janes, creative director for Sugar Cosmetics. She adds that “the prestige market will always want lipstick.” Although lipstick might not be losing any users, the product might not be gaining any new ones. “The younger market is shifting totally to lip gloss, and it will be a while before lipstick becomes prominent again,” says Janes.
“In the past, lipstick packaging has mainly been clunky and not sexy,” says Tarte’s Mezzina. Updating a lipstick’s packaging can help give lipstick more of a modern edge. “The only way for lipstick to make a true comeback—and to be more enticing to a younger consumer—is to emphasize the sort of wanton sexiness that a gloss can’t deliver, à la Chanel’s Vamp,” says Mezzina.
Stila’s PussyCat Dolls collection seems to be on the right track toward promoting a sexy image through its package design—the lipstick containers wear decorative garter belts. Brands can choose one of Crown Risdon’s new slimmer packaging options to entice consumers. “The outer packaging for lipstick is being changed significantly right now from what it used to be,” says Pearlman. He feels this is partly due to the development of new formulas.
Crown Risdon’s new Slim Glide and Trim Glide packages include a mechanism that incorporates both a slow-turn and an anti-push-back feature. Both of these features were specifically designed to accommodate softer formulas. “Besides the trend toward gloss during this past year, we have seen more movement toward soft formulas for lipstick, which further segments the lip category,” Pearlman explains. “Unlike a traditional mechanism, which rotates once and the lipstick is fully exposed, it takes several turns with our mechanism.” The nosepiece on this package is meant to surround a softer formula, keeping it in place so it won’t break when you swivel it up. “The side wall of the A-shell fully supports the lipstick,” says Pearlman.
In order to solve the problem of a consumer not being able to reach the last 20% of product left in the well of an A-shell, Roberts Cosmetic Containers has launched its Twist & Click lipstick dispenser. “This patented mechanism allows the user to acess all of the product,” says Deans. “When the lipstick is almost at the end, the user hits the ‘normal’ stop. Then the user just adds a little more force and the cup continues to rise, one click at a time, until all of the product is finished.” Several companies have expressed interest in using this package, says Deans. The tooling is currently being finished.
Upcoming Designs
Suppliers like HCT Packaging are already preparing for upcoming trends in cosmetic packaging. Goswell says, “[We are developing] even smaller, more-portable kits.” The company has also been looking at different materials and their properties. Goswell describes these: “New polymers, which can be scented, or allow for remarkable clarity and squeezability, will present many exciting new options for packaging.” Very soon, we hope.