New Formulations : Organic Regulations Take Root
Jason Natural Cosmetics' new labels state the products' certified organic content. According to the State of California, only products with 70% or more organic ingredients can feature the term "certified organic" on the front label. Otherwise, certified organic ingredients can be listed on the back panel.Though controversial, the California Organic Products Act gives brands the benefit of labeling their products as certified organic.
By Marie Redding, Senior EditorDemand for organic agriculture is thriving. Organic personal care product companies now not only compete for materials, but also face new regulations for formulations and packaging, all meant to protect organic product customers.
Full implementation of national organic standards for food went into effect in October 2002 and were issued by the United States Department of Agriculture's (USDA's) National Organic Program (NOP).
In January 2003, California became the first state to establish certified-organic guidelines for cosmetics, personal care products, clothing, and supplements, calling it the California Organic Products Act. Under the act, Jason Natural Cosmetics (Los Angeles, CA) became the first personal care company to be certified as an organic processor.
The act applies USDA's same NOP standards for food. The Organic Consumer's Association supports this. However, there are many experts who feel differently, including Jeffrey Light, founder and president of Jason Natural Cosmetics.
"The definition of organic is severely limited right now, and no allowance has been made for the complex ingredients that are required to make an effective personal care product," says Light.
Light is a member of the Organic Trade Association's (OTA's) Personal Care Task Force. He is taking an active role in helping to establish guidelines for all organic personal care products. The OTA task force's mission is to draw up a list of prohibited natural and allowed synthetic ingredients, processing aids, and processes.
While the California Organic Products Act is controversial, organic personal care companies can take advantage of it in one respect—by making sure to advertise the term "certified organic" on their packaging if their products are deemed as such under the act's guidelines.
Jason Natural Cosmetics began repackaging its entire product line in 2003. To ensure that its products can be classified as certified organic, the company is also revamping its formulations. "We're putting in all the organic ingredients that we can find," says Light. For example, though parabens are a safe and commonly used preservative, they are synthetic and derived from petroleum. So in Jason products, Light instead uses grapefruit seed extract, potassium sorbate, and sodium benzoate as preservatives.
Light feels strongly that new standards need to be set allowing the use of surfactants and other safe preservatives in organic products. "Right now, only simple formulas that are mainly combinations of organic oils are able to be certified as organic," he says. "I care about my customers and want to take precautions against bacteria growth inside a product. That is why using preservatives is so important."
Since the California Organic Products Act took effect, manufacturers are hoping that consumers will look for the words "certified organic" to verify a product's quality. The OTA envisions that the next step is to establish industry standards and incorporate them into OTA's American Organic standards. Once in place, they will help to ensure that organic claims on the labels of personal care products are truthful and end confusion for the consumer.