Cosmetic/Personal Care Packaging.

• You're at:
• Home \
• Magazine \
• Archives 2003

• Print
• Email

Packaging Feature: Stocking Up on Style

It's What's Inside That Counts

Often, a standard-looking package conveys a more-complex message. Some companies make use of stock packaging to show customers that instead of spending a lot on a package, they can put their money where it counts most—on the product's formulation.

Pacifica (Portland, OR), a personal care company, uses only stock components for its line. "Rather than investing in custom bottles, we invest in product development," says Billy Taylor, who cofounded Pacifica with his wife, Brook Harvey-Taylor. The packages' simple look hasn't detracted from the prestige of the line, which retails in stores and spas like Fred Segal and Bella Donna.

Pacifica's minimalist packages help portray the company as one that emphasizes formulation. "Today's customers are savvy and may feel that if a package is simple, they are paying less for the packaging and more for high-quality products," says Harvey-Taylor.

This doesn't mean that the packaging is unattractive. Simple black and white components conjure a modern image, which Harvey-Taylor describes as "Asian and apothecary-like." In fact, Pacifica's retail packages feature the same components that the company's chemists used for samples during product development. Among the components are clear Boston Rounds, opaque jars, and black caps. "I liked the packages' medicinal look so much that we decided to use the same packages," says Harvey-Taylor.

Streamlined packages rather than lavish ones speak to a contemporary spa audience. The lightweight, shatterproof plastic containers are also travel-friendly. "The packages look more raw and stand out, almost because they look so standard," she adds.

Sourcing the components from a single supplier, Alameda Packaging (Fremont, CA), helps maintain a cohesive packaging look. The colorful labels designed by Harvey-Taylor and Starlee Matz of Sandstrom Design (Portland, OR) reflect the products' botanical ingredients.

Less-expensive components allow Pacifica to sell high-quality products cost-effectively. This message is stated for customers on the company's brochure: "We use simple recyclable boxes, bottles, and jars that can be thrown in a bag without the worry of breakage. This also means that you are not paying for unnecessary packaging."

Less Is More

For Christopher Brosius, perfumer and creative director of Demeter Fragrance Library (New York City), bottling a perfume in a plain container means not influencing a customer's reaction to the fragrance. With a company that retails products called Dirt, Snow, and Tomato, it makes sense that Brosius encourages customers to keep an open mind when sampling Demeter's products.

"Each customer has his or her own personal reaction to a scent, and we choose to influence that response as little as possible," says Brosius. "We keep the packages as minimalist as possible to focus all of the customer's attention on the scent and not on a fancy package."

Demeter fragrances are housed in a simple, clear rectangular glass bottle adorned with a pump and a cap, all stock components supplied by Arrowpak (Richmond Hill, NY.) The bottle's shape was chosen for several reasons. "We wanted something that was simple but stylish and that had flat surfaces for labels," he says.

Like Pacifica, Demeter adds color to its packages using labels. The white labels bear plain black text and a color band that coordinates with the fragrance name. The simple, unassuming typeface is meant to contrast with the unconventional fragrance names, says Brosius.

To avoid targeting a specific audience, the bottle's shape is androgynous. "Many bottle shapes seem to classify the type of scent in the bottle by conveying, 'I'm feminine'; 'I'm for boys'; or 'I'm expensive'," says Brosius.

The packages' simple look reflects the fragrances' retail price. Like Pacifica's founders, Brosius believes that fragrances should be affordable. "One of our main tenets for packaging is that it should be as inexpensive as possible," he says. "No one should ever be afraid to use a Demeter scent because it's too expensive."

As Demeter Fragrances continues to expand, using stock packaging makes it easier when working with suppliers. "The advantage of stock packaging is that it allows suppliers to accommodate volatile business growth," says Mark Crames, CEO of Demeter Fragrances. "Our strong relationship with Arrowpak and the support we have received from them have made it possible for us to meet unexpected demand on a timely basis."

Using a stock bottle is also convenient for maintaining uniform packaging as the line is extended. By interchanging labels on the bottle, "we can add new fragrances to the collection at very little cost," says Brosius. "We also encourage customers to wear several fragrances together, and thus the bottles must look coherent when grouped together."

Both Brosius and Pacifica's founders say that personal care company Kiehl's started the trend for standard-looking packages. "Kiehl's used only stock packaging and instead spent the money on formulation and ingredients,"says Brosius, who worked for Kiehl's for four years.

For those who still doubt stock packaging's commercial appeal, the industry acclaim that Demeter Fragrances has received may serve as proof that stock packages can make a distinct impression. This spring, Demeter's fragrances will be in the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum's prestigious Triennial exhibition, which "looks at the breaking development and future horizons across the fields of design practice."

Standard Deviation

Manufacturers can rest assured that standard stock components don't necessarily hinder a custom-looking design. Given the wide range of stock components available, it's most often creativity and research that make transforming stock components into a one-of-a-kind package possible.

This spring, the Lielac, Vainilla, and Rouse fragrances by Flowerbelle (Beverly Hills, CA) are set to debut in select Nordstrom stores. Flowerbelle's creative director, Jeneva Bell, says that she spent more than a year sourcing the packages' components.

"When dealing with stock, you can still create a package that looks customized, but it usually takes more time and research," says Bell. "From a creative perspective, there is also an element of compromise because you have only a set range of components to work with. Still, when the pieces of the puzzle finally come together, it is rewarding."

For Flowerbelle, a complementary combination of stock components results in packages that even industry professionals often mistake as custom. A simple 50-ml frosted square glass bottle was sourced through TricorBraun (St. Louis) and supplied by Saint-Gobain Desjonquères (New York City.) At the suggestion of Petra Binney, packaging consultant for TricorBraun, what was initially a clear glass bottle was swapped for a frosted version. The simple change gave the package a softer look. The stock crimpless pump was supplied by Rexam Dispensing Systems (Purchase, NY.)

The bottle's plastic cap plays a key role in the packages' custom look, says Bell. Supplied by Le Gift (Pennsylvania), the stock cap features swirly contours that are "abstract yet reminiscent of flower petals," describes Bell. "The cap looks custom because [its image] supports the brand name and concept and it is not a conventional cylinder." The plastic cap looks deceivingly heavy, giving the impression of frosted glass.

Flowerbelle's labels also contribute to the packages' precious feel. "The adhesive label feels more handmade and boutique like than silk-screened graphics," says Bell. Made from thick paper, the textured matte label features only the Flowerbelle and fragrance names. "The name Flowerbelle already conjures a flowery image," says Bell. "I didn't feel I had to throw the marketing message at the customer by putting a picture of a flower on the label. With more blank space on the label, customers can use their imaginations to uniquely interpret the fragrance."

Bell says that using stock packaging was convenient once she had sourced the components she wanted. "Once you find the components that suit your design, the production process is quicker and less problematic than a custom-design approach," she says. "You also find that suppliers can be extremely helpful."

The result is a finished package that to many people looks custom-made. "The fact that people in this industry thought that I'd spent a lot of money on a custom package was gratifying," says Bell.

Personal care company Davies Gate (Irwindale, CA) also devotes itself to modifying stock components. Most of the company's unique, brand-specific packages come from stock. "We work best when we take a familiar profile like a cylinder bottle and make it look new through decoration, copy, and other details," says Jack Davies, CEO for Davies Gate.

One-Stock Shops

Web sites are making it easier for product manufacturers to source stock components on-line.

O. Berk Co. (Union, NJ) designed its Web site, www.OBerk.com, to help manufacturers search for components by variables such as industry type, material, container shape, size, and neck thread. In addition, measurements can be converted on-line into metric or U.S. units. For companies looking to purchase components in small quantities, the Web site's link, www.BottleStore.com, lets manufacturers purchase stock components that O. Berk sells by the carton.

The Web site's E-Z Packaging Reference Guide is an encyclopedia of industry terms designed "to help companies better learn the language of packaging," says Steve Nussbaum, director of marketing for O. Berk, who oversees the Web site. Industry trade shows are also listed.

Web site www.eDesignerStudio.com was created to "provide a one-stop access to stock components manufactured by many different suppliers around the world," says Andrew Rock, the Web site's founder.

At no charge, designers can combine stock components from suppliers such as Inoac Packaging Group Inc. and Berlin Packaging to create a mock package on-screen. The Web site shows components to scale and lets designers know if certain components are not compatible. Users can then either obtain a free sample of their package from eDesigner Studio or be referred to the companies that provide the components.

"Back when we started eDesigner Studio in 1999, our projections for the demand for stock componentry seemed like our critical risk," says Rock. "Today, [the demand for stock] is a given. Stock's happening."

Though it takes a lot of design work to make its stock components unique, the company still appreciates the benefits that stock packaging provides. "An advantage with stock packaging is that most of the technical and product compatibility issues have been worked out by the suppliers ahead of time," says Davies. "And stock components are designed to complement a wide range of packaging designs."

Flower Garden, Davies Gate's newest fragrance line, is housed in a stock 1.4-oz flint glass bottle, supplied by Brosse USA (New York City), that Davies said was chosen because of its shape. "The bottle's squat look is very unusual in the fragrance market," he says.

To keep a customer's focus on its contour, the bottle was decorated with only a tiny label printed with the company and fragrance names. No overcap was used "because this would have increased the height of the bottle," says Davies. Instead, the stock bottle's unusual shape serves as the package's main marketing tool.

Stock...Or Not?

The best evidence that stock packages can look as good as custom made is when customers can't tell the difference between the two.

Guerlain's 2002 redesigned Terracotta line features a mixture of stock and custom compacts. For the Poudre Bronzante product, a compact was custom molded by Techpack-Cosmetech Mably International (New York City). In addition to the custom compact, stock compacts for the Fond de Teint d'Ailleurs foundation and tester were provided by Techpack-LIR (France) and Techpack-Laffon (Italy). By using inserts and hot-stamped foil graphics, the stock compacts were made to match the custom compact's look.

"[The stock compacts] fit seamlessly with the rest of the line," says Trevor Hurrell, head of innovation at Techpack's Innovation Center in Chevilly Larue, France. "This is an excellent demonstration of how stock packages can be used to [complement] a custom line."

In September 2002, Techpack opened its Innovation Center, with a mission to develop new stock packages. "During development, we take into account a stock package's potential for customization," says Hurrell. "Our creative team tracks new-product launches to ensure that our designs take into account the latest trends." Techpack also consults with formulators to ensure that its packages are compatible with the latest formulation innovations. An on-staff make up specialist advises how to make packages more user-friendly.

Hurrell says that large brands like Guerlain are taking advantage of stock packaging's benefits. "Most of the large brands, though they have their own custom packaging, now also often turn to stock packages for their promotional launches," he says.

At LuxePack 2002 in Monaco, DieterBakicEnterprises (Munich) demonstrated how stock packaging can give the appearance of being custom designed. Using its stock components, the supplier created three finished packaging lines bearing pseudocosmetic company logos, with each line's brand identity designed for a different target group. The Fluxus line was fashioned to look young and sassy; the Invisible line was made to look delicate; the Marlene line had a luxurious, high-end look; and the Oskar line appeared masculine and high-tech.

"We wanted to demonstrate how stock packages, when designed creatively and stylishly, can give a distinctive brand appearance," says Dieter Bakic of DieterBakicEnterprises.

The demonstration was effective. "People thought that the packages were from our [actual] customers," says Bakic. "In the end, they were impressed by the versatility of our stock packaging."

Standard Appeal

Whether a manufacturer seeks an ornate or a minimalist look, product manufacturers can adapt stock components to suit almost any line. As Pacifica's Taylor states, "Stock packaging can look great if your packaging designs are well conceived and well executed."

Back to top