Co-ed Fragrance

American Eagle Outfitters launches Alive as a natural complement to its clothing line.
When American Eagle Outfitters (AE),Warren-dale, PA, decided to create Alive, a new spray fragrance that would be a natural complement to the active AE lifestyle, the nationwide apparel retailer turned to Risdon-AMS, Thomaston, CT, to produce packaging components for the scent that would reinforce the AE experience. AE wanted its fragrance package to have a substantial, upscale look and a feel that would be attractive to its young, spirited customer base. Moreover, AE needed a packaging component manufacturer that not only had the ability to execute its design but who could also deliver the finished components within its aggressive timeframe, which was to launch the product during the height of the 2000 back-to-school season. Michael Leedy, vice president of marketing at AE, and Susan Miller, vice president and general merchandising manager, led the design and launch effort that included thoroughly test marketing the fragrance before going into full production.
"We were looking for a manufacturer who could meet our quality standards, help us with an aggressive timeline, and really work with us," says Lisa Downham, senior personal care buyer for American Eagle Outfitters, who joined Leedy and Miller on the Alive project team. "We're all about a team effort and we want our vendor partners to work closely with us. If they can tell us how to improve our design-to make it work easier or to use the right material-we're thrilled to get this help. Risdon-AMS certainly fit the bill in all of these categories. They were true partners."
Another key player on the AE team was Ray Jones, who runs International Resource Services. Jones is an operational consultant with extensive experience in the fragrance and personal care industry. He helped bring American Eagle Outfitters and Risdon-AMS together for the Alive project. As the first nationwide launch of a fragrance line for AE, Jones was looking to bring on a partner who had the depth and experience to guide the clothing retailer in implementing the right packaging design and production objectives for their ground-breaking venture. "As soon as Risdon-AMS came on board, we knew immediately we had the right partner," says Jones.
The launch schedule was another critical factor in choosing a packaging supplier. AE's desire to put the product on the shelf in the summer of 2000 meant the first choice of a supplier had to be the right one. There was little room for error. "Because of the timeframe, we didn't have the luxury of going through a review process of component manufacturers," says Jones. Risdon-AMS was brought on board for the project in late spring of 1999.
The design AE eventually submitted to Risdon-AMS called for a custom-made cap that would be thick-walled, yet translucent. Risdon-AMS was also commissioned to produce pumps and collars that would enhance the fragrance's 30-and 100ml sizes.
Interpreting A''s design renderings, the Risdon-AMS engineering team, under the leadership of Ralph DeVito, product development manager, was able to advise AE on functionality and all of the technical details necessary to produce a package with the exact look and feel AE was seeking. DeVito pushed the decision-making process along by generating 3-D models to show the different options from which AE could choose to bring their distinctive design to life. "We knew we were bringing to the table a very challenging design for a cap, and Ralph met the challenge," says Downham. "Risdon-AMS made it work and that's why we chose them." Collaborating with DeVito from Ridson-AMS were Jim Bigham, sales engineer, Roger Pappineau, fragrance engineering manager, and Paul Mannion, director of sales and marketing.
As part of AE's test marketing program, Risdon-AMS developed limited tooling to produce 25,000 pieces for the trial. Six months later, after AE received an overwhelming positive response from the test, Risdon-AMS completely tooled up for a full production schedule.
Reflecting the Consumer
The completed package for the new Alive fragrance, named to reflect the vibrant lifestyle of the typical AE customer-both men and women-features a Surlyn®, translucent blue cap crowned by an aluminum medallion etched with the AE logo. The cap is distinguished by a uniform series of longitudinal grooves, 360 degrees around its surface, which proved to be a very challenging element in the molding process. "Surlyn® is not the easiest material to work with," says DeVito. "But it enabled us to produce a cap that had both the substantial feel the client wanted and a lightness of appearance so as not to conflict with the experience the client was trying to convey to its customers." Even though the cap's material is thick, its translucency allows the customer to see through it and view the profile of the inner pump, actuator and collar.
"[Risdon--AMS] had three challenges: an unusual design, a difficult material to work with, and a demanding timeframe," says Jones. "They delivered on all counts-something extremely rare in this business."
The low profile pumps (LPP) for the Alive Fragrance Spray feature Risdon-AMS' The Crimpless System®, a patented, pressed-on pump. Risdon-AMS' LPP system delivers a variety of sizes in a low profile dispenser while giving designers flexibility. The actuator and collar for Alive are finished in a silver matte color.
Risdon-AMS also produced a plastic Mini Mist¨ sampler or promotional spray for Alive. The sampler has been included in AE's media kit announcing the fragrance launch. The diminutive two-ml spray is packaged in white colored plastic with the Alive name printed in orange around the middle of the vial. Mini Mist is an advantageous marketing tool because it lets the end-user spray on the fragrance, just as it should be, and gives the customer the same type of experience as if she or he were using the full size product.
The caps for the Alive fragrance were manufactured at Risdon-AMS' Danbury, CT, plant. The pumps were produced at the company's Thomaston, CT, plant. Pochet supplied the bottle.
Alive became available July 2000 and will be sold exclusively at the more than 500 American Eagle Outfitters stores nationwide.